PORTRAIT – This “ocean dancer” challenges the giant waves that hit the cliff of Nazaré all winter long.
Deep in her eyes shines an intense fervor, a mixture of candor and experience. With her head propped up in her hands, Justine Dupont reflects. “Why am I surfing? To learn about me… ”, she slips, strong and fragile at the same time. The long curly hair rests on her tanned cheeks, as if not to fall out. She blows and makes them fly in a perfect balance. “When I surf, I live hard. All my senses are awake. I listen, I feel, I am fully aware of the elements and of myself. It is a privileged moment. ”
The muscular shoulders tell of the hours spent in the water, stirring and fighting against the current. Justine Dupont (29 years old) has a slender silhouette (1.75 m), elegant. The physique of a “beach girl” who, in the 1960s, on the Basque coast or the beach at Montauk, would have condemned her to stay on the sand to watch the boys. The spirit of surfing back in the day.
“I was a curious little girl, remembers the one who grew up in Saint-Médard-en-Jalles,
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